The legend lives on: 60-year-old The Malaya reopens at Grosvenor Place

The Malaya has reopened at Grosvenor Place with a fresh new approach.
The restaurant has been around since 1963 and is one of Sydney’s beloved dining institutions.
New third-generation owners have stepped up to the plate but have kept the menu mostly consistent, introducing more seafood and vegetarian dishes.
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Sydney’s long-standing dining institutions are scattered all across the city, from Sean’s in Bondi to Darlinghurst’s beloved German gem, Una’s. Time has been good to these celebrated kitchens, anchoring the Harbour City’s increasingly dynamic spread of food and drink with chiseled consistency.

The Malaya opened on George Street in 1963 and for over six decades has been feeding Sydney top-shelf Malaysian, Nonya and Indonesian cuisine. Its global profile lifted even higher when The Malaya moved over to King Street Wharf, where it has sat overlooking the harbour until recently.

Now, the popular Sydney restaurant has come full circle. The Malaya has reopened not far from its original location, sprouting up in Grosvenor Place as the precinct’s new headline attraction. And to celebrate, a fresh approach of sorts with third-generation siblings Duan and Isabella Wong steering the ship.

*The Malaya’s new interior is functional and spread over two levels (photo: Steven Woodburn).*

Gone are the blockbuster water views leaking in through massive floor-to-ceiling glass windows. The new venue is spread across two levels with enough capacity for 180 guests inside and 60 on a breezy outdoor terrace. Natural light is still a big focus for the design, cascading into the restaurant from a central skylight, but from photos released so far, it’s looking more functional than fantastic.

“Being in a more dynamic CBD hub feels like the right next step,” offered Duan Wong.

“We’re surrounded by some of the city’s best hotels, and there’s a steady stream of foot traffic from Circular Quay down George Street. It brings a new energy to the restaurant — and to our team.”

This “new energy” also means a wider offering.

The siblings have wisely kept the menu consistent with a few seafood-weighted changes. The Malaya is already renowned for its extensive options, and that’s unlikely to change so you’ll still be able to dig into the signature Malaya curry, slurp on full-flavoured bowls of laksa, and make everything that much better with prawn sambol.

*The Malaya has refined its drinks list with reimagined cocktails and a stronger focus on Riesling (photo: Jason Lucas).*

But the shift towards seafood has also ensured those XO pipis and kam heong mud crab are just as central to the dining experience as those deep, complex curries. Vegetarian diners will especially love the new approach, bringing them a greater range of options like deep-fried Szechuan eggplant and a plate of creamy kerabu vegetables.

Quietly modernising a restaurant with such a strong, worldly following is a delicate balance and the siblings have clearly landed on the side of consistency to keep regulars happy. And yes, there’s still a lovingly long and approachable wine list, but now with a more obvious bias towards Riesling best suited to seafood, spotlighting mostly Australian and German producers.

Feature image supplied and credited to Jason Lucas.

The Malaya

Address: 225 George St, Sydney NSW 2000
Contact: (02) 9279 1170
Opening Hours: Monday (6pm – 11pm); Tuesday – Thursday (12pm – 2:30pm, 6pm-11pm); Friday (12pm-2:30pm, 6pm – 9:30pm); Saturday (12pm-2:30pm, 5:30pm-11pm)

themalaya.com.au